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Mr. Cairo recommended four cheeses to accept beside the fire. Dutch Parrano has a sharp, acrid aftertaste that ''doesn't run away'' and pairs able-bodied with red wine and a abrupt barbarian aliment like ciabatta. (Imagine a bendable Parmigiano-Regiano.) L'Edel de Cloron is a French cheese agnate to Swiss Vacherin; it's abnormally acceptable with pears or to eat with any of the breads delivered circadian to Michael's from several places in New York City: Aliment Alone, Eli's and Arthur Avenue. Old Chatham Sheepherding Company's Camembert, fabricated with beginning sheep and cow's milk, has a acerb but actual bland aftertaste (it pairs alike bigger with white wine). Finally, Mr. Cairo appropriate French Yogurt cheese as a abundant lowfat option.

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Michael's Gourmet Foods, 24 Harwood Court, Scarsdale. Phone: 723-3024. Hours: Monday to Friday, 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., Saturday, 8 to 5:30 p.m. Prices: Dutch $10 a pound, French $12 a pound, Chatham $12.50 a pound, Yogurt $7 a quart.

The Abundance as Baby

The Rye Country Abundance is the oldest of the lot, in business for 46 years; Christopher Colalucci and Claire Hassi accept been there for 11. Affiliated aback they bought the store, they afar eight years ago, but accept remained ally in the store, generally spending 11 hours a day together. The way they see it, the abundance is and consistently has been their baby, and annihilation has afflicted that, not alike the actuality that both accept remarried. Eight months ago, they confused the abundance beyond the artery into a architecture they bought calm -- not a concise investment, to say the least.

Breads like semolina, sourdough and baguettes access on a approved base from E.A.T., Tribeca, Acceptable Bread, Orwasher, Terra Nova, Linscott and A. & M. There is an array of accomplished cheeses, like Pierre Robert, complete Stilton, Cambozola, Shropshire Dejected and Appenzeller, forth with the added accepted Camembert, Morbier, Jarlsberg, Saga Dejected and St. Andre.

The Rye Country Store, 41 Purchase Street, Rye. Phone: 967-3450. Hours: Mondays through Saturdays, 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. Prices: $5.95 a batter for Jarlsberg, $10.95 for St. Andre and Cambembert, $19.95 for Appenzeller; aliment is $2.95 a loaf for semolina, baguettes and boule.

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A Young Reputation

At three months old, Auray Cheese Boutique would assume too new to accept a acceptability yet. Not so. Nine years back, the owners Warren Reid (in sales and business for a publisher) and Dale Kaffir (a amusing worker) absitively they capital to assignment for themselves, and (having aloof met) they dived into the cheese business in Philadelphia. Everything charge accept clicked, for they are now affiliated and accept relocated to Larchmont, a boondocks they say was the ''only'' atom to do so, acknowledgment in about-face to the ample surrounding French citizenry with the French American School of New York. French association accomplish up at atomic bisected of their clientele, Ms. Kaffir said.

Mr. Reid and Ms. Kaffir acclaim any of the after pairings, all of which are accessible aural their shoebox-size store: Orwasher's or Eli's atramentous aliment with raisins, walnuts and sesame seeds with candied cheese like Liverot, Alsatian Muenster and a array of dejected cheeses (Ms. Kaffir's claimed favorite); baguettes from TriBeCa and Eli's with bendable cheeses like Brie, Camembert, Pierre Robert or amateur creme; boules from TriBeCa and Eli's with Gruyere or French Basque sheep's milk, and ciabatta with dupe cheese, decidedly the age-old French version. A special, hardly altered bond (and one that is adamantine to find, alike in New York) is a allotment of quince adhesive (membrillo) with La Chivita, or age-old dupe cheese from Asturias, Spain.

Auray Cheese Shop, 1935A Palmer Avenue, Larchmont. Phone: 833-2274. Hours: Tuesdays through Fridays, 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Saturdays, 9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Prices: Cheeses ambit from $6.90 a batter for brie to $18.50 for brin d'amour; aliment is $2.25 to $4.95 a loaf.

Their Own Bean Mill

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Although it is allotment of a franchise, Abundant Harvest Aliment in Larchmont is audibly the action of Susan and Zealie van Raalte. In aboriginal 1997, Mrs. van Raalte accidentally appropriate to her bedmate that he abdicate the announcement and business job that was arresting him and accessible a aliment shop. That bound led to the actualization after that year of Abundant Harvest Bread. Mrs. van Raalte, again an accessory assistant of English and autograph at Pace University, larboard her job anon after to accompany her husband.

While they acceptation the appropriate aureate berries from Montana (you can see them bullwork the berries on armpit in their own bean mill), and advocate the standards of the franchise, the van Raaltes accept added abounding claimed touches that accord this boutique a personality of its own.

The two act abundant like Mr. and Mrs. Santa Claus, demography pictures of every adolescent who enters the abundance and advancement that those antecedence barter abide adorn assets to ''dress the baker,'' their aerial amulet in the corner. The van Raaltes go to abundant lengths to accompany the eyes of the acceptable adversary to life, outfitting the amulet in awful artistic anniversary garb, Uncle Sam apparel or, once, as a altogether cake.

The soft-crust aliment that is served at the abundance is dense, abundant and nourishing. Abundant Harvest Bread's country white, honey accomplished wheat, nine atom and onion dill rye all brace able-bodied with cheese. Although they advertise ''just bread,'' don't forget, Auray Cheese Boutique is alone a block away.

Great Harvest Bread, 1120 Chatsworth Avenue, Larchmont. Phone: 834-4599). Hours: Tuesdays through Fridays, 6:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m., Saturdays, 7 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Prices: $3.95 to $5.25 for a 2.2-pound loaf.

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Bread as Matchmaker

The Kneaded Bread, in Port Chester, should be your final stop.

In the summer of 1997, Jeffrey Kohn, a alum of the Comestible Institute of America, had developed weary of affable in New York City restaurants. He assertive his best friend, Jennifer Brody, a arranger for Mercury Records at the time, to accompany him on a comestible bout of Europe.

Using the book ''The Cheese Primer'' as their guide, the two subsisted for months on cheese and bread.

They alternate affianced to be affiliated and acquisitive to advertise their knowledge. Mr. Kohn saw Port Chester, anchored amid Rye and Greenwich, as ''a home run'' in agreement of area for the Kneaded Bread. The Kohns baby to a ample Latin American citizenry as able-bodied as a bulk of artists who appear from their lofts about noon, acquiescently reminding the Kohns of their canicule in Greenwich Village, Barcelona and Paris.

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If you ask the owners which cheeses they would bout with their loaves, you will aback acquisition yourself by their ancillary at the markets of Europe, sipping wine forth a bank and agilely munching on their adorable recommendations. The country walnut aliment is abundant with a blue-veined cheese like Roquefort or Papillon. The rosemary olive aliment is a accustomed bout for dupe cheese. Their baguette and Camembert Chatelain is a absolutely admirable combination. You additionally cannot go amiss by putting a allotment of Gruyere aloft their sunflower aliment or alleviative yourself to affliction aucampagne with Beaufort Gruyere. Sadly, of these cheese suggestions, alone Coach Farm dupe cheese is awash in the store, but I would not be afraid if their banal broadcast in the abreast future). And should you appetite aloof a loaf of bread, accept the amber one. If you are advantageous abundant to accept leftovers, you can deathwatch up to the best French acknowledgment you've anytime had.

The Kneaded Bread, 181 North Capital Street, Port Chester. Phone: 937-9489. There are affairs to accessible a annex in Armonk. Hours: Tuesdays through Fridays, 7 a.m. to 6 p.m., Saturdays 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., Sundays, 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Prices: $1.75 for a baguette, $3.75 for a country loaf, $5 for a pound-and-a-half biscuit agitate brioche; $4.75 for a cheese button, $7 for an age-old cheese log.



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